Shiraz: the city of poets, roses and the Pink Mosque
Shiraz is Iran without expectations. Hafez is not a character in a textbook here — he's a living confidant: people come to his mausoleum with life's questions and read poems aloud. The Pink Mosque, the ruins of Persepolis and the best faloodeh in the country — all in one city.
A morning in Shiraz begins with the scent of roses. Literally: from March to May the whole city is in bloom, and locals sell bouquets at every crossroads. Shiraz is an Iranian city that never tried to be modern. It long ago decided to remain itself — a city of poets, gardens and rose-coloured stone.
Nasir ol-Molk Mosque: the pink light
The Nasir ol-Molk Mosque is called the 'Pink Mosque' because of its rose-coloured stained glass. Every morning from 8 to 11 sunlight passes through them and paints the carpets in pink and violet patterns. This is not a tourist legend — it is real. Come strictly before 10:30, or the sun angle will have moved. Entry: around 200,000 Iranian rials (~₽80).
The mosque was built in 1876 and is still active. Tourists are asked to observe the dress code: women must cover their hair and wear modest clothing (wraps available on loan at the entrance). Photography is permitted everywhere except during prayer.
Hafez Mausoleum and Eram Garden
Hafez-e Shirazi is the greatest Persian lyric poet of the 14th century; every Iranian knows his verses by heart. His mausoleum sits in Hafezieh park, free to enter. Locals come in the evening: they open a volume of the Divan of Hafez to a random page and read — whatever falls open is the answer to the question. This is called fal — divination through Hafez, and it is very much alive.
Eram Garden is one of nine Iranian gardens on the UNESCO World Heritage list. Forty-metre cypresses, pools reflecting a pavilion, formal flowerbeds. Best time — April, when everything is in bloom. Entry 300,000 rials (~₽120).
Persepolis: 2 hours from the city
Persepolis was the ceremonial capital of the Achaemenid Empire, founded by Darius I in 518 BC. The ruins are vast: staircases with reliefs showing delegations from 23 nations, towering columns, the Gate of All Nations. Go at 8:00, before the coach tours arrive. Entry ~500,000 rials (~₽200). Taxi from Shiraz: 1.5–2 hours, around ₽1,500 return including waiting time.
Cafés and food
- Vakil Café. In the basement of the historic bazaar. Saffron tea, faloodeh — a dessert of rice noodles with ice and rose water, the great Shirazi specialty. 50,000 rials (~₽20).
- Haft Khan restaurant. Best place for lamb kebab and yellow saffron rice. Seven halls, each in the style of a different Iranian era. Lunch for two: around ₽600.
- Narenj Café. In the courtyard of an old house. Fresh pomegranate juice, Iranian cardamom sweets. Popular with local students.
- Vakil Bazaar. The 17th-century bazaar itself is a sight. Buy saffron here: 4–5 times cheaper than in tourist shops at the exit.
When to go and how to get there
Best time: March–April (rose season, Nowruz) and October–November (warm, uncrowded). Summer can reach 40°C. Fly to Shiraz from Tehran on domestic flights (~1 hour, from ₽3,000). From Moscow — via Tehran with Mahan Air, then IKA → SYZ (50 minutes). Russian nationals can get a visa on arrival at Tehran airport (VOA, 30 days, €75) or apply online.
Shiraz is a city that does not hurry. Allow at least 3 days: one for mosques and gardens, one for Persepolis, one simply for wandering the lanes of the old city. The second view of Shiraz is better than the first.