Istanbul: on both sides of the Bosphorus
Two continents, three thousand years of history, one city. Istanbul is not a postcard of the Blue Mosque. It's a living megacity where the best fish sandwiches are sold from boats under the Galata Bridge.
Istanbul begins with a crossing. The ferry from Eminönü to Kadıköy costs 18 lira (~₽50) and takes 20 minutes. In that time you cross the Bosphorus, move from Europe to Asia, and understand: this is the most honest way to feel a city where everything is divided and connected at once.
The European side: history and bazaars
The Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia stand 200 metres apart on Sultanahmet Square. Hagia Sophia has operated as a mosque since 2020; tourists enter outside prayer times — free. Arrive at opening (9:00) or after 15:00 when the morning groups have cleared. The Blue Mosque opens for 45 minutes between each prayer; the queue is minimal.
The Egyptian Spice Bazaar (Mısır Çarşısı): real saffron from ₽600/g. Turkish delight at Hacı Bekir (open since 1777) — this is not what they sell to tourists at the exit. The Grand Bazaar (4,000 shops) is best on Tuesday or Wednesday — in the weekend it's survival, not shopping.
Kadıköy and the Asian shore
Kadıköy market in the morning: fresh figs, 12 varieties of olive, fish straight off the boat. The Moda neighbourhood: sea-view cafés, independent bookshops, a promenade with views of the Princes' Islands. Evening: Çiya Sofrası — 40 years in one place, a menu from south-eastern Turkey you won't find anywhere else in the city.
The Princes' Islands — 1.5 hours by ferry from Kabataş (50 lira). Nine islands, no cars, transport by horse-drawn carriage and bicycle. Büyükada (the largest): the monastery of St George on the hilltop, 19th-century wooden villas, swimming in exceptionally clear water. Go for a full day — last ferry back by 10pm.
Galata, Beyoğlu and the Turkish bath
Galata Tower (120 lira): best panorama. İstiklal Avenue: 3 km on foot. Turn into the side streets and find Asmalımescit — a block of meyhanes with raki, meze and live music until 2am. Çiçek Pasajı (Flower Passage) — a covered 19th-century arcade with fish restaurants.
Turkish bath (hamam) — a must. Çemberlitaş Hamamı has been operating since 1584, five minutes from Hagia Sophia. Full treatment (steam + soap massage + scrub): around 600 lira (~₽1,800). Staff at the hamam speak Russian.
What to bring home
- Saffron. From ₽600/g in the Spice Bazaar. Never buy saffron at the airport — it costs 5–6 times more.
- Turkish delight. Only Hacı Bekir (since 1777, three locations). Tourist stalls sell cornstarch with sugar.
- Tea. Loose-leaf black tea from Rize at the Grand Bazaar — 200–400g lasts six months.
- Ceramics. Authentic pieces are from Kütahya, not China. Three to four times pricier than tourist plates — but genuine handcraft.
Getting around
Istanbul Kart (70 lira) works on metro, tram, bus and ferries — saves ~30% vs single tickets. Top it up at any kiosk. Direct flight from Moscow SVO → IST, around 4 hours. Russian nationals enter visa-free for up to 60 days.