Muscat: the Arab city where nothing shouts
Muscat is the opposite of Dubai. No skyscrapers above 6 storeys, no malls with indoor ski slopes. Instead: white mosques by the sea, a fish market with the freshest tuna in the region and the Al Hajar mountains 45 minutes from the beach.
Oman is the only Arab country where buildings above 6 storeys are not permitted. As a result, Muscat looks as though it was designed by someone who actually enjoys living. The low Corniche waterfront, white villas, date palms and mountains behind the city — this is not a backdrop for tourists, it is an everyday view for 1.6 million people.
Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque
Open to tourists Saturday to Thursday, 8:00–11:00. Admission free. The main hall holds 20,000 worshippers — the same capacity as St Peter's Basilica in the Vatican. A hand-woven Persian carpet weighing 21 tonnes, made over four years. A crystal chandelier 14 metres in diameter weighing 8.5 tonnes. This is not bragging — it is simply what is here.
Strict dress code: covered shoulders and knees for everyone, headscarf for women. Wraps available on loan at the entrance, free. Photography everywhere except during prayer. Best time: 8:00 sharp, before the coach tours.
The Corniche and old Mutrah
The Corniche stretches 5 km along the Gulf of Oman: palms, white pavilions, evening joggers and cyclists. The best view of Muscat is from Fort Jalali (17th century) opposite the harbour — tourists cannot enter, but it photographs beautifully from outside.
The old port district of Mutrah is five minutes from the centre. Mosques stand next to Hindu temples — Oman has historically traded with India for centuries. In the evenings on the Mutrah Corniche: fishermen, families with picnics and a complete absence of tourist pressure.
Mutrah Souq
Frankincense in 40 varieties: from Pakistani (500 rials/kg) to Omani luban ($200/kg). Omani luban — translucent, with a milky tint — is called 'white gold' and exported to Europe and Japan. Handmade silver jewellery: sterling silver 925, the same chasing technique for 300 years.
Bargaining is not the culture in Muscat. Asking for 'the best price' is acceptable and will get you 10–15% off. But the ritual of haggling simply does not exist here: a price is set and it is final.
Nature: wadis, mountains and sea
Wadi Shab, 2 hours from Muscat: a canyon with emerald lagoons. The final feature: swim through a cave to a chamber containing a waterfall. Wadi Bani Khalid — easier, with freshwater pools, popular with local families.
Jebel Akhdar ('Green Mountain'): 2,000 metres above sea level, damask roses bloom in May — used to make the Al Jabal Al Akhdar rose water, the most famous in the region. A 4×4 is essential — hairpin road with no barriers. Car hire from ₽3,500/day. Jebel Shams ('Mountain of the Sun', 3,009 m) — Arabia's Grand Canyon, cliff walls dropping 1,000 m.
Omani food and restaurants
- Shuwa. Lamb marinated in spices and slow-cooked in an underground pit for 24–48 hours. Made for festivals; some restaurants prepare it to order a day in advance.
- Harees. Wheat and lamb simmered for hours to a porridge consistency. Simple and phenomenally good.
- Mutrah fish market (7–11am). Best tuna in the region — buy directly from the fishermen and take it to the adjacent cook-shop for frying.
- Kargeen Caffe. Traditional Omani courtyard with shisha, cardamom coffee and halwa. Popular with locals, not a tourist venue.
Getting there and practical notes
e-Visa online for $20, processed within 24 hours, no restrictions for Russian passport holders. Best season: October–March (+25–30°C). April–September: heat up to 45°C — mountain routes only (+18–25°C up high). Transport: Mwasalat taxis with fixed fares; car hire from ₽2,500/day — essential as public transport is sparse. Direct flight from Moscow SVO → MCT, around 5.5 hours.